Culture, curves and camaraderie: a Harley journey through the Middle East

From mountain switchbacks in Oman to sandstorms in Saudi Arabia, Greg and Ela Kedzior’s nine-month ride across 15 countries reveals a Middle East few motorcyclists ever see – rich in culture, warm in welcome and unforgettable in every sense

As told to James Gill

For many riders, the Middle East is a region glimpsed in headlines or history books, not on the open road. But for Greg and Ela, a Harley-riding couple from southern Poland, it became the stage for one of the most transformative adventures of their lives. Swapping European highways for desert tracks, mountain passes and bustling souks, they set out on their Pan America^™ to see what really lies beyond the stereotypes.

Over nine months and 36,500km, they discovered a land of contrasts – futuristic cities and ancient ruins, sandstorms and snow-capped peaks, wild camping under desert stars and warm welcomes from fellow bikers in every country. Their journey was more than a ride – it was an immersion into a world rich with culture, history and human connection, proving that for those willing to explore, the Middle East offers motorcyclists not just roads to ride but stories to live.

We caught up with them while still on the road for their Expedition East.

What initially drew you to explore the Middle East?

After exploring much of Europe, North America and South America, we knew it was time to head east. The Middle East had always fascinated us: rich culture, deep history, striking diversity. But we’d never felt its heat, heard its call to prayer, or seen its deserts under our own wheels.

We plan our rides around the climate, and winter 2024 (and into 2025) offered the perfect window. The first stage of Expedition East. The perfect next step. A region of ancient traditions, varied landscapes and stories waiting to be discovered.

 Our journey began in Poland and led us through Ukraine, Romania, Moldova, Bulgaria, Turkey, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Qatar, the UAE, Oman and Egypt. It was an intense, transformative ride filled with unexpected challenges, incredible landscapes and unforgettable human connections.

How accessible is the region for long-distance motorcycle travellers in terms of fuel stops, accommodation and general infrastructure?

The Middle East is well set up for long-distance motorcycle travel. Fuel is among the cheapest in the world, widely available and excellent quality. Accommodation is plentiful, ranging from budget guesthouses and campsites to high-end hotels.

Safety, particularly in GCC countries like Saudi Arabia, UAE, Oman and Qatar, is exceptional – you can leave your bike unattended with valuables in plain sight and nothing will be touched.

We timed our route carefully to avoid extreme heat, entering Iraq in November when temperatures were more manageable. Road quality was generally good and often better than expected, with far more variety than just desert – from mountain passes to winding coastal roads.

What challenges have you faced?

During this journey, one of the most demanding stretches was the ride from Riyadh to Najran in Saudi Arabia – more than 300km through a full-blown sandstorm. It was the first time I’d ever ridden in such extreme conditions and it was both physically and mentally exhausting.

It was an incredibly tough ride, but also one that reminded us of how unpredictable and wild the elements can be, and how important preparation and resilience are on a journey like this.

How is the Pan America performing?

We continue to believe that the Pan America is the best Harley-Davidson^® model for a journey like this. The capabilities this bike offers – both on-road and off-road – are simply unmatched within the H-D^® motorcycle line-up. It’s proven itself to be not only tough, but incredibly versatile and we’re constantly impressed by how well it performs, no matter the terrain.

Have you made any modifications or adjustments?

We ride a 2022 Pan America Special that’s pretty much stock, apart from a stiffer rear shock spring to cope with the weight of two riders and all our gear. To make it ready for an expedition, we’ve added a few essentials that make life on the road easier and safer – a pre-filter for dusty tracks, extended fenders for rain and mud, auxiliary lights for better visibility, extra fuel canisters for the remote stretches, a comfier set-up for the passenger and protective guards for the engine, radiator and other key parts. 

These tweaks might seem small, but they make a big difference to comfort, safety and the bike’s ability to take on whatever the journey throws at us.

Were there any places that surprised you or changed your preconceptions?

So many! The cultural diversity across the Middle East is so vast and different from what we know in Europe that it’s hard to pick just a few.

One of the most powerful experiences was visiting the old city of Mosul, Iraq, walking through what remains of a place so rich in history, now heavily scarred by destruction.

On the other end of the spectrum, Egypt looked completely different to us when experienced from the saddle of a motorcycle, compared to a resort holiday we had years earlier. Riding through it gave us a much more raw, authentic perspective.

We were also surprised by the ultra-modern face of the region: places like Doha, Qatar, and Dubai, UAE, with their futuristic skylines and cosmopolitan vibes, felt like a different planet compared to the ancient ruins we had just left behind.

And then there was Petra, in Jordan, which is without a doubt one of the most jaw-dropping wonders of the world we’ve seen so far. It’s a place that doesn’t just meet expectations, it totally blows them away.

Have you encountered other riders or biking communities in the region?

From the moment we entered Turkey, through to the countries of the Arabian Peninsula, we continuously met fellow riders and local biking communities along the way. In every country that had an official Harley-Davidson dealership, we had the pleasure of connecting with H.O.G.^® members, often joining them on local rides and events.

What are some must-see destinations you’d recommend?

If we’re talking about pure riding pleasure and scenic roads, a few destinations immediately come to mind.

Oman is an absolute gem – with its winding mountain roads, dramatic landscapes and low traffic, it’s a dream for riders. The western mountain region of Saudi Arabia also offers spectacular riding, especially around places like Abha and Al Bahah, with curvy routes and surprising elevation changes.

Jordan is another fantastic country for motorcyclists, combining history, breath-taking desert routes and mountain scenery. And then there’s Lebanon – small, but packed with beautiful, twisty mountain roads and coastal views.

Can you share a moment that stands out?

One of the most emotional moments for both of us was taking part in a public event in Aleppo, Syria. At one point during the celebration, we found ourselves treated as honorary guests – seen as representatives of the free world. Locals told us we were probably among the very first motorcycle travellers to visit Syria after years of war. They described us as swallows announcing the arrival of spring; a sign that a new, better future might be coming. 

For us, it was deeply humbling to realise that our simple act of showing up could carry such symbolic weight for people who had endured so much.

Another standout moment was at the end of our stay in Baghdad, Iraq, when our friend took us to one of the city’s most famous restaurants, run by a well-known local influencer. The food was incredible, but what really made it special was how it turned into a full-on show, with us as the focal point of the whole evening! The energy, the warmth… it was unforgettable.

How has this compared to other regions you’ve travelled through?

This part of the world exposed us to a fascinating blend of cultures, values and ways of living that are very different from what we’re used to. For us, it wasn’t only a geographical shift, but also a cultural journey. One that challenged our perspectives and allowed us to experience the richness and complexity of a world we had only read about before.

If you could give one piece of advice to someone considering a similar ride through the Middle East, what would it be?

The most important advice we can give is to plan your route around the climate. If you’re thinking of riding through the Arabian Peninsula, make sure to do it during the winter months. Timing your trip right can make all the difference in safety and enjoyment.

Greg and Ela are currently on the road, continuing their journey east. You can follow their adventures daily through stories, posts and reels on Instagram and Facebook: Screw It. Let’s Ride!

Instagram: www.instagram.com/_screwitletsride.com_

Facebook: www.facebook.com/p/Screw-It-Lets-Ride-100055717486945

YouTube: www.youtube.com/channel/UCX68hTnouoaPQE7Wmn41KVA

Website: screwitletsride.com