From fjords to friendship: our unforgettable motorcycle journey through Norway

In July 2024, five members of the Thames Valley Chapter undertook a once-in-a-lifetime ride across Norway

Words by Duncan Feakes

Introduction
“The roar of our engines echoed through the misty fjords as we curved along the Atlantic Road, with sheer cliffs plunging into the icy blue waters below.”

In July 2024, Mohit and Payal Khanna, Andy Millar, Neil Robbins, and I embarked on a dream motorcycle trip to Norway – a land of fjords, glaciers, and some of the most epic riding roads in the world. The primary purpose of the journey was to attend the Norway National H.O.G.^® Rally in Savalen, but there was no way we were going to simply go straight to the rally and back – we had to take the opportunity to see what Norway had to offer. However, this journey wasn’t just about exploring Norway; it was about pushing limits, savouring the freedom of the open road and deepening friendships.

Planning and preparation
The idea for the trip was first voiced in 2023 when I stumbled across an advert for the rally on Facebook. “Who fancies a trip to Norway?” was the simple utterance, which unexpectedly received positive responses. Of course, when the proposed trip is approximately a year away, it’s easy to be blasé about things like distance, time and expense.

I immediately set about preparing a rough feasibility plan of the trip, including sample stopovers, hotels, ferries, and so on. It was quickly agreed that this was something we all wanted to commit to, so we got down to business, discussing potential routes, must-see sights, and must-ride roads. As you can probably imagine, we went through quite a number of revisions before agreeing on the final plan. But agree we did, all we had to do now was make the reservations and count down the days. Of course, I also had to explain to Janet, my long-suffering wife, that I would be away over our 40th wedding anniversary! This, on the back of the fact that I was in France over her birthday earlier in the year. Somehow, I got away with it.

The journey begins
Very early on a July morning, three Harley-Davidsons met up in Ashford, UK, ready to head to France via Le Shuttle to begin our adventure. Yes, that’s right – three! You see, during the planning phase, Neil, Andy, and I, being full of bravado and overconfidence, decided that we’d ride from Ashford, UK, to the Germany–Denmark border in just one day. The oh so sensible Mohit and Payal had decided to set off a couple of days earlier and take a little longer to do the outward trip.

Day one was over 560 miles in the saddle, more for Neil, who had decided to ride down from Reading in the morning. It was a long day, full of seemingly endless motorway miles and inevitable traffic jams. Someone had told us that you shouldn’t filter in Germany, so we didn’t… at first! After countless miles of slow traffic, we threw caution to the wind and pulled into the middle of the traffic and, unlike riding in England, it was like the parting of the waves. The traffic seemed to open a lane for us, and we glided through, somewhat amused by the number of bikers sitting patiently only to join on behind us and take advantage.

Having travelled through five countries, we arrived at our hotel just south of the Danish border in the early evening. Anyone who has done any travelling with Andy will not be surprised to hear that Bessie needed a “little love”, so Andy unrolled the tool belt, Neil and I headed out for pizza.

Day two was a quick blast up through Denmark to Hirtshals to get our ferry to Kristiansand, Norway, to begin our trip properly.

Trip highlights

Lysevegen
Riding down the Lysevegen road towards Lysebotn was an unforgettable descent into one of Norway’s most breathtaking landscapes. Starting at the summit, the 29km stretch offered us 27 exhilarating hairpin bends that snake their way down to the picturesque Lysefjord. The ride begins with sweeping panoramic views of the surrounding fjords and mountains, gradually transitioning into a thrilling series of tight curves and steep gradients. Midway, we passed through a dramatic 1km tunnel (which included a hairpin and also felt like the entrance to the lair of a Bond villain) that opens to jaw-dropping vistas, leading us ever closer to the charming village of Lysebotn. This ride was a technical challenge with unmatched scenery, making it absolutely a bucket-list ride.

The next day, now five people on four bikes, we got to ride back up this incredible road. The only downside was that, due to a cycle race, the road was going to be closed, so we had to set off significantly earlier than originally planned, but the views in the dawn light were worth it. We rode alongside achingly beautiful fjords, climbed over Hardangervidda, over 1,600m in altitude, and rode past glaciers full of blue ice. This was to become a theme for the trip.

Stegastein Viewpoint
Arriving at our hotel the night before visiting Stegastein, we discovered that all the hotel staff had resigned and walked out that morning! It very quickly became clear that the chap on reception had never worked on reception before. After about 10 minutes of confusion, Mohit decided to reveal that he speaks Norwegian, so we left him to it. We also discovered that the restaurant wasn’t open and there was nothing nearby. However, they kindly offered to cook us a traditional Norwegian stew, which we very gratefully accepted, not expecting the feast that was laid out. What amazing hospitality.

So, on to Stegastein. Located high above the Aurlandsfjord, the route begins in the charming village of Aurland and winds its way up the mountainside on a narrow, curving road. As we ascended, every twist and turn revealed ever more stunning views of the fjord and surrounding peaks. The viewpoint itself is a marvel of modern design, a wooden platform that extends 30m out from the mountainside, offering a panoramic view of the fjord 650m below.

Trollstigen
Originally, we had planned to conquer Trollstigen, the legendary “Troll’s Path” with its 11 hairpin bends and dramatic cliffs. However, just before our trip, we learned the road was closed due to a recent landslide.

Undeterred, we rode to the bottom of the valley for our overnight stay. We were able to ride to the base of the descent for photographs, but had to accept that it wasn’t meant to be. I guess we’ll just have to go back!

The Atlantic Road
One of the most iconic stretches of the trip, the Atlantic Road, felt like riding on water. The anticipation had been building for months, and the reality did not disappoint.

Under glorious sunshine, the road unfolded before us in jaw-dropping splendour, its graceful curves and sweeping bridges seemingly suspended over the sea. With light traffic, we could fully savour the experience, pausing often to soak in the views and snap photos and videos that could barely capture the magic of the moment.

Norway National H.O.G. Rally
A standout moment of the trip was attending the Norway National H.O.G. Rally, organised by the Trondheim Chapter. With more than a dozen countries represented, the event was a celebration of camaraderie and shared passion for riding Harley-Davidsons. We were honoured to represent the UK, alongside a similar-sized party from the Rolling Hills Chapter. The energy of the event, combined with the chance to connect with riders from across the globe, made it an unforgettable highlight of our journey.

The experience of riding in Norway
Norwegian roads are a motorcyclist’s paradise. Smooth and well-maintained, they wind through breathtaking landscapes. However, the narrow roads and unpredictable weather required constant attention. We also met challenges with road closures and roadworks, which could often add many hours to the journey. Fortunately, the cross-fjord ferries are regular, efficient, and cheap, and they also added a different dimension to our trip. Every challenge was worth it for the views of glacier-fed rivers, mirror-like lakes, and endless forests.

Unsurprisingly, we encountered many, many, many tunnels on our journey – some were less than 100m, some were more, and some corkscrewed up mountains. One tunnel worth a mention is the Lærdal Tunnel, which is 24.5km long and includes a roundabout inside – that’s not something you encounter every day.

Conclusion
We covered over 5,500km and travelled through eight countries in nine days, and it was a trip none of us will forget. Norway left us in awe – not just of its landscapes and the people but of the joy found in the journey itself. If Norway isn’t on your bucket list yet, it absolutely should be. Pack your gear, grab your friends, and ride into the adventure of a lifetime. The land of trolls, fjords, glaciers and tunnels awaits, ready to leave you breathless and longing for more.